Category Archives: Sewing Tips

Butterick 6244: The Sleeveless Jacket I Can’t Live Without

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I’m the kind of girl that always has a million plans and dreams on my To-Do List and never enough time. I’m a type 1 perfectionist on the enneagram.  I’m one of those people with stacks of self-help books that have been read, highlighted, and dog-eared in the appropriate places. I plan trips months in advance.  I have been known to make itineraries for our house guests that are planned down to the minute.  Yep.  You read that right. The minute. 

So deciding to take on a sewing project the day before a trip I haven’t fully planned yet is basically a thing that would never happen to me. 

Except it just did. 

Our lives have gotten so much busier this past year. I still marvel that I’m a homeschool mom that never seems to be home. The perfectionist in me has had troubles adjusting to a busier lifestyle that isn’t planned down to the minute,  but out of necessity, I’ve made it work. (Did you hear all my fellow perfectionists just gasp in horror?) 

So even though I’ve known our family was flying to Los Angeles for months, I never got around to fine-tuning our plans.  Now, before you think I’ve lost myself in the middle of our busy lives, please know the following:

Yes, I have a list of things we must do in Los Angeles. 

Yes, I have pre-researched restaurants and the weather.  

Yes, I’ve researched parking for various locations and made note of the best time to find parking at top destinations. 

I just haven’t planned a daily trip itinerary. It, honestly, kind of kills me to even type that.  Someone, get me a counselor!

So imagine my surprise when I decided I was sewing myself a sleeveless jacket instead of meticulously packing for our trip. 

Sneak peak at the sleeveless jacket I sewed when I should have been packing.

I still can’t get over my sudden reckless abandon. 

Here I am. The Amy who now suddenly lives with reckless abandon.

My husband basically thought I was insane, and so did my kids.  Every time my foot touched the presser foot, all eyes darted in my direction.  While everyone else was doing last minute packing, I was doing last minute sewing before throwing a little last minute packing into the mix too. 

I literally HATE the term “YOLO”.  My teenage boys sometimes say it to me as a joke because they know how much it pains me to hear it.  But the new Amy filled with reckless abandon had a YOLO moment and she isn’t sorry.

Here’s the thing. 

Butterick 6244 is magical.  This pattern is easy-as-pie to sew and the fit and style of this unlined jacket is beautiful. Included in the pattern are instructions for flat-fell seams which make the inside of this garment just as lovely as the outside.  I’m one of those people that can’t stand the thought of an unlined jacket, but this Butterick pattern is changing my mind.  When the interior seams are pretty, an unlined jacket is something I can get behind!

Butterick 6244 making its debut on Rodeo Drive cause that’s how I roll.

This fabric I used is a camel-colored knit that entered my stash before my daughter could even read. Originally purchased from JoAnn Fabrics, it is a remnant from a previous project that I never loved. I almost never sew knit, but I love the way this particular fabric drapes.  

It’s so flowy, you guys!

There are a million ways you could style this and because of the color, it matches just about everything too. 

I’m so smitten with it, that I plan to make a replica in black as soon as we get back from our trip.   I’m also thinking I want to make a version and include the sleeves. Because who are the monsters repeatedly making jackets and omitting the sleeves?!! 

For my version, I chose to add the darts and flat-fell seams as the pattern suggested. However, I decided not to hem any of the edges, including the arm hole. This gives it a clean crisp look and I love the little extra bit of style those raw edges add to this piece. 

I’ve never left raw edges on anything before but I’m loving them on this make.

You’re going to see me everywhere in this.  And I beam with joy when I think of it because this make is the project none of us ever saw coming. Sometimes a little change does a person good. (Cancel that appointments and tell that counselor I’m gonna be ok, after all.)

Sure, I’m a little wrinkly but I’m wearing my masterpiece on Rodeo Drive. WHAT?!?!?!

Now for my official pattern review…

Butterick 6244 Pattern Review

Describe this pattern.

Semi-fitted, unlined coat (wrong side shows) has front extending into draped collar, flat-fell seams, narrow hem, and shaped front hemline longer than back. Lined dress has contrast shoulder yokes, short sleeves, fitted bodice with princess seams, and invisible back zipper.

What is the difficulty level for Butterick 6244?

This pattern is easy. There are no buttons or zippers involved so this is a great pattern for a beginner seamstress.

What type of fabric would be best for this pattern?

This pattern was designed for light-weight to medium-weight woven fabrics. I used a knit from my stash, and it worked perfectly.

Are the pattern directions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you like about this pattern?

I love that this pattern is easy and includes instructions to keep the inside nice and pretty, just like the outside.

What did you dislike about this pattern?

I loved everything about this pattern.

Did you make any alterations to this pattern?

I omitted the sleeves and did not hem the armholes or bottom of garment bc I used a knit fabric and I felt this gave it a cleaner look.

Do you recommend this pattern? Would you sew it again?

This is a great pattern for the beginner seamstress. The fit is great, the instructions are easy to understand, and this pattern can easily translate to every season by omitting/adding/modifying sleeves and fabric.

My Dress-Making Secret

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I can still remember the first time I saw the skirt. It stood out from all the others on the rack. It was poofy and big. I’d always dreamed of being a ballerina as a child, and it was like this skirt was calling out to me and giving me another shot at wearing a tutu. As a child, I had always dreamed of a bubblegum pink tutu, but this ivory-hued tutu felt perfect for the adult Amy. As I reached for my dream hanging on the rack in front of me, my eyes darted to the tag which noted that this skirt was even better than I had imagined. “Alice and Olivia”. Not only was this skirt beautiful and perfect and on sale, but it was a designer skirt. Glory hallelujah! My ballet dreams were coming true.

It’s funny how many times a 30-something year old homeschool mom can find reasons to wear a poofy tutu. Where there’s a will, there’s a way, my friends! This skirt has carried me through Mother’s Day and church, and family Christmas photos inside a Target store. (Before you even ask, I pose this question to you…Who are the people NOT taking family photos inside of Target?)

Amy in her Alice and Olivia skirt. Photo courtesy @elyssehasfaith (Instagram)

This skirt is a dream. In so many ways. It’s funny because I’ve had this skirt for years and it was only recently that I realized why this skirt is so magical.

Folks, this skirt possesses the sewing secret I just discovered and can’t quit for obvious reasons.

Horsehair braid.

Yep. You read that right. My dress-making secret is one of the cheapest things you’ll find in a fabric store. (Cue: angels singing.)

With as much as I love all the big things…skirts, hair, eyelashes, blankets…, it’s a wonder that I’m just now stumbling across this wonderfully delicious sewing secret.

Skirt made with Simplicity 8328 and horsehair braid.

But because I cannot keep a good thing to myself, I am going to share my secret with you.

Horsehair braid is the thing no one talks about but is used constantly. It’s the secret behind big, beautiful skirts and also happens to be the easiest thing in the world to use.

Don’t believe in its transforming power? Check this out. The pink tulle skirt on the left and the tulle skirt portion of the dress on the right were made using the SAME EXACT skirt pattern and piles of tulle. However, the dress on the right is much poofier because I sewed horsehair braid to the hemline of my lining.

Both skirts were made using Simplicity 8328.

The best part is that that extra oomph in the skirt on the right was just as easy-peasy as the one on the left. Like, I cannot stress enough how bomb and easy horsehair braid is for even a beginner seamstress.

If you’re new to sewing, have no fear. I’m about to make your sewing dreams come true because I’m going to tell you how to insert this magical braid into the hemline of your garment. I have used it on two dresses in the last few weeks.

Even the rain can’t dampen the poof on Simplicity 8328 with horsehair braid.

Both of these dresses have piles of layers, but trust me when I tell you that the glamorous poof they exude would not have existed without my addition of horsehair braid to the lining of my dresses.

Horsehair braid and the addition of a stiff lining created a shorter version of Simplicity 8328.

You can add this stuff to the hem of a dress without lining, as well, but my current obsession is giving my dress a poof without it being so obvious how it became so poofy. I’m so sly. I know.

Sly Amy in her poofy dress.

Here’s the step-by-step process:

1.Buy the braid.

The width of the braid can be found on the bottom left-hand corner of the box. This braid is 1″ wide.

Horsehair braid comes in different colors and widths and can be found at JoAnn’s, which is where I have always purchased mine. If you live in south Florida, check the bottom shelf under the needles. You’re welcome, fellow Soflo friends. Purchase the color that best matches the fabric you will be hemming with it. I love the 1″ width braid. Make sure you know the length you need, as this will need to be cut at the fabric counter. When in doubt, grab 3 yards. This hasn’t failed me yet. Knock on wood.

2. Insert the braid.

Horsehair braid is the easiest way to hem a garment. First, you want to make sure you examine the horsehair braid. One side is a little bit more rough than the other. This is the side you want to face your fabric in your finished hemline.

Next, you want to place the rough side facing you and even with the edge of the RIGHT side of your fabric. Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge all the way around the hemline.

3. Finish.

Now, turn your horsehair braid to the INSIDE of your skirt. Once turned, this creates a firm, even hem-line on the outside of your skirt and a pretty rolled hem on the inside of your skirt. At this point, the rough side of the horse-hair will be facing the wrong side of the fabric.

If you are feeling fancy and this is being installed on the outer layer of your skirt, hand-stitch the horse-hair braid to the inside of the skirt. However, if you are attaching it to the lining of a skirt as I like to do, then feel free to run that hemline through the machine to anchor the horsehair braid down.

And that’s it! Literally. You just made yourself a skirt that’s poofy as I’ll-get-out and sure to turn heads. I wish I could host some sort of Big Skirt Party so we could all wear our new makes and party like the pretty little ballerina seamstresses we are, but we will have to keep it much simpler for now. Maybe instead, you can go tell everyone you know how much money you saved because instead of buying a poofy Alice and Olivia skirt, YOU MADE ONE! Hats off to you! You’re a rockstar!

If you follow my tutorial and want to show off your skirt, hashtag your make with #SewAmy so I can drool over your creation with you! Until then, you can find me in the One Spot at Target buying things I “need”.

Photo courtesy: @elyssehasfaith (Instagram)

XOXO, Amy